Aqara H2 EU Switch loses the connection if the neutral conductor is not connected.
Is this normal? I always have to switch the fuse on and off to make it work again.
Aqara H2 EU Switch loses the connection if the neutral conductor is not connected.
Is this normal? I always have to switch the fuse on and off to make it work again.
hi, which protocol are you using to connect your aqara h2 eu switch to your home hub? is it directly connected to the main control hub of your home or throughout some bridges? matter or matter over thread usually provides less functionality/option than factory default zigbee. using zigbee and aqara home app with proper settings should work.
I use Matter over Thread with Aqara M3 Hub and HomePods
I, kind of, have a similar issue. I have a no-neutral setup and what I’m facing is that when the smart bulbs are off (0% brightness) the switch goes offline. If I turn the bulbs on from the home assistant, the switch comes back online. I’ve swapped the bulbs with a different set, no more issues, the first set of bulbs are just smart-dimable, whilst the second set is RGB-smart.
My understanding is that the switch needs a minimum wattage to keep staying online.
Quoting from aqara’s site “Due to design, the Aqara Smart Wall Switch (No Neutral) can’t adjust well to lights of small load. The minimum power of typical load that the Aqara Smart Wall Switch supports is 3W/way (Incandescent) and 5W/way (CFL/LED). If the load for the light is smaller, it will flash occasionally.”
I see several leads pointing to the ideea of placing a bypass-capacitor in paralel with one of the bulbs, lead that I’ll try to follow later today and come back with a result.
Hello, I had this. Connecting a capacitor to the lamp helped. I soldered a capacitor to the case instead of one lamp and screwed it in. After that, there are no problems. The switch is without zero.
Where did you solder it, more precisely? Do you happen to have a picture of this, or a diagram explaining? Also, what would you recommend as the best specks for the bypass-cap?
I took apart an old LED lamp and used the base (thread) from it. Then I glued the light filter back on (I threw away the lamp filling) and screwed it into the free lamp holder.