I am trying to connect a Aqara H1 EU switch to a dumb electric drop bolt lock. The idea is to control the power to lock/unlock the lock. I am trying to figure out where does all the connection should go and came out with this.
Can someone advise if this will work?
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Hello, welcome to the forum. Theoretically, everything will work fine. You will have to make automation so that after a specified time the switch turns on again (imitation of pulse mode).
By the way, using relay T2 you can control the low-voltage side, interrupting the power going to the magnet.
And if you find a 24 volt magnet, then you can power the relay and control the magnet😊
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Yes, it should work fine, you can use the decoupled mode to separate physical switch and the buttons. Then you will have full control of the buttons via automations.
The H2 EU switch supports 100-240V, so it should be fine, and the decoupled mode (and automations) can be used to configure it as either NO or NC.
Because you use a converter, you will have a slight delay when you turn the power off (because it will hold the charge for a few seconds), but if you use a 24V converter and a T2 relay (as @gafich10 suggested) then you will have immediate response
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Theoretically you can use DC-DC 12-24 volts to power T2. Make dry contacts for T2 and control the magnet. Any wireless button or already installed switch in the house will work as a remote control.
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Thank you @gafich10 and @cezary806 for your reply. If I added in a T2 Relay (My lock is definitely on a 12V) will the following two diagram work? I still need a physical switch so I was thinking adding a switch with no load and use it in a decoupled mode.
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I think it should work as per this description in the manual
ATTENTION, no voltage can be applied to S1, S2 and COM. There is only a stupid switch there.
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You’re right, but I think @KoFamily drew correct wiring in the second image.
But there absolutely should not be line voltage in the COM/S1/S2 terminals
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@gafich10 Thank for the reminder. The top image is a very high level layout of the devices. The actual wiring is on the 2nd drawing. And yes, the ports used are L, N, L1 and Lout.
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Once again sorry for the misleading diagram. Now that I look at it again, it does give people the feeling that I am connecting to the S1 port. My bad 
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